Getting Started: What is glycolic acid? Glycolic acid is primarily marketed as fruit acid. But there is much more than that.
For a complete understanding of the role of acids and the use of skin care to crawl and try to understand how skin care was made in the previous century. In the forties and fifties most of the products for skin care, where essentially oil-based spermaceti (from sperm whales), paraffin wax, petrolatum, and more expensive for the manufacturer and most progressive using olive oil and lanolin. (There is some evidence that Cleopatra used the last two oils) In the sixties a French manufacturer (Yves Rocher), a pioneer of natural skin care began to use botanicals. At this time we had no evidence of the potency of the active ingredients. And most of botanical extracts on the market, where the draw for the snuff industry as a flavoring agent. Only recently has established a standard for the content of active ingredient of botanical extracts. Also the pH balance of the product, when on the acid side of the scale. (The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 of the maximum basicity acidity, and 7 is neutral) The acidity of most products you usually in the range: pH 5.5 to 6 5. This level of acidity is controlled most of the time citric acid (citrus) In the fifties the major manufacturers in the care of the skin was crazy about the “insanity great” and decided that: skin care has to be of a neutral pH of 7. A large amount of publicity came, everyone was buying Care neutral pH of the skin and all manufacturers make products with neutral pH. One to understand: in the first part of last century, nothing was happening to the industry of skin care. The money was in makeup. Those days: false claims, misrepresentation, bad science, and the testimony without foundation, constantly appearing. Also the killing of sperm whales was banned and a large amount of animal fat appear on the market. This was a reward for the mink industry / skins to sell their bodies that are lost from dead animals.
Now back to glycolic acid. There are many forms of glycolic acid, glycolic acid have Alpha and Beta. Glycolic acid alpha mostly fruit and acid produced mainly from sugar cane, pineapple, citrus and others. A milder form of glycolic acid, lactic acid is produced from milk. Now, to glycolic acid Beta: Beta glycolic acid is salicylic acid is an organic acid from the amino acid phenylalanine. He is the main component of aspirin.
Salicylic acid is used as a component of many brands of acne products. Its use in anti-wrinkle cream is less widespread, probably because of the difficulties faced by the formulator when added in an emulsion. Our short history of the manufacture of skin care bring us in the nineties when the miracle happened: The industry rediscovered that acidic products are actually better for skin products with a pH of 7 or higher. Now the fashion of the acidic and begin! The war is on acid percentages.
Who is the most acidic of them all? In the north will bring a 10% AHA. Immediately south and you answer 20% AHA. And so on until exhaustion. It’s the morning after the war, the sun is rising in the battlefield, things calmed down and the generals on both sides are telling their victims, now realized that war was unnecessary and a
Average must find the balance of life as we know it! Studies of the percentages of glycolic acid use in the commercial, over the counter cream and lotion products found: 5% to be a good average. The reason behind this is as follows: As the acid content increases the pH low. Low pH of your skin to raise the pH to an acceptable level should be calcium hydroxide and the announcement that defeats the purpose of high acid content. Studies to test the efficacy of alpha compared to the Beta glycolic acid are inconclusive at best. Both acids appear to be equally effective, however the effect of salicylic acid showed a more sustained efficacy and fewer adverse effects than the AHA. Other studies found that the pH at which glycolic acid is the most effective is below pH 4. However, we can give a burning sensation when applied to the skin. In doctors’ offices up to 80% glycolic acid have been used to peel. For general use suggested around 5% cream and lotion and 10% do it yourself peel. However, peels, make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions conscience! Long exposure may cause temporary redness. Glycolic acid is good and beneficial ingredient in skin care, and can be recommended as a good treatment for acne, wrinkles and aging skin! Try different brands and formulations. Try different products from different manufacturers. Pleasant and skincare.
Tags: basicity, botanical extracts, natural skin care, range ph, sperm whales